As I understand it, it is standard practice to put 20 or 30 rounds through a MAS36 after re-assembly to get things to `settle in`, you can then adjust the tension of the LBB screw to tighten up groups.

ukrifleman.

 

The M1 garand needs about 50 rounds to settle in after removing it from the stock.

 

? never heard of this?

 

All weapons need this if you disassemble them especially rifles as they need to settle into the stock.
I do not take apart mine for any reason unless it get WET and that is hightly unlikely in the area I live, very few rain showers right now.
Patrick

 

For the Garand, me neither. I toted one around for Uncle Sam decades ago, then got one from CMP and never had a problem in that regard.

 

1886lebel: Enjoyed your video.

I downloaded to my Kindle the 8 volumes of “The Story of the Great War” and they are a most interesting and revealing read about the First World War.

Was surprised to learn the French Army was one of the very few armies which put great emphasis on the bayonet and invested extensive training of their soldiers in the use of it. Before and during the Battle of the Marne when the French would make a close quarters bayonet charge and employ it, the Germans almost went mad with fear and fled for their lives. The Germans had received little training with the bayonet and suddenly in the trenches they were faced with savage and screaming Frenchmen slashing and stabbing them.

I also did not know how in the opening days of the war, the valiant Belgians fought the surprise German invasion of their neutral country. Hopelessly outnumbered and outgunned, their stubborn resistance delayed the Germans for several days, giving the French more time to mobilize to face the main German onslaught and after bitter fighting, throwing them back at the battles of the Marne.

 

Don't know that I'd say the French army was among "very few" which put emphasis on the bayonet. The US certainly did, as part of its at least official emphasis on training for "open warfare", and there are plenty of photos of British troops with bayonets fixed.

Anyway, as to the initial post, I've read much the same thing about how the US 1903 needed about 20 rounds to settle in after the stock was off. And it pays to check the screws for proper tightness regardless, because normal changes in atmospheric conditions will effect the wood whether it's been off the rifle or not. But honestly, I rarely if ever have any reason to remove the stock from one of my bolt action rifles in normal usage. (Never, from one of my SMLE's.) There's simply no point to doing so.

 

French pre-WWI war doctrine was HIGHLY emphasised toward the bayonet charge where ELAN would rule the day. The Russians also had the same exact theory in thier pre-war doctrine as well. The US Army trained with the bayonet but it really was not doctrine per say as these two armies were highly based upon the bayonet charge, the US was more if the situation arises then it came to it but it was not the whole doctrine.

We could discuss this whole thing on a seperate post so that we do not take away from the original intention of this post
Patrick

 

The author in Vol. two (who wrote it contemporaneously with WW1) actually stated, that only France and Russia put great emphasis on the bayonet and extensive training in the use of it.

But you are right, my bad, I have drifted far off topic

 

TANSTAAFL:

If this is the rifle with the purported 1942 barrel, it would be the best time to pull the forewood off and save some good pictures of those markings. They could be an important addition to our understanding of the Mle 1936's history during Occupation.

As you reassemble, make sure that the forearm 'snaps' over the resistance somewhere approximating 10/20 degrees from faying to the barrel. If it does not, a bit of edging veneer under the fulcrum tang will return it to spec. Any looseness, other than a slight shifting under mainforce, will also be corrected by this method.

I have been fortunate that all the rifles I have had apart have settled back to true within a few rounds. That is why I think the forestock tension may be suspect.

 

Thanks for info orcmastiffs, but after my experience, (See below) for now I will not be tearing the rifle down, perhaps later it might become necessary and will do so, but not before that time.

Took the 1936 back out to shoot, to say I got frustrated would be a gross understatement. It took another 25 rounds before accuracy settled in somewhat, then 15 more rounds and tweaking the forearm band screw tension before got it as accurate before disassembly.

The thing that gets me, is the rifle came in refurb mummy wrap and the guy I bought it from said he had never fired it, he had tried to clean cosmoline and I finished the job. Which means it was only refurbed and stored. So why was it accurate first time out with it, did I just luck out?

Some say no big deal about restoring accuracy after disassembly, others say it is a big deal. Believe me, I am now definitely in the latter group.

 

TANSTAAFL:

Wood will adapt its 'memory' to the contour in which it has been stressed. It is not surprising that the years had sufficed to seat the bedding-pads. Where you were lucky is that your rifle had been sighted close to point of impact, rather than bore-sighted, as many were. Sorry to understand that you do not intend to provide visual proof of the 1942 barrel. That has also been the case with a 1941 example that was claimed, but never materialized. Best of luck, all the same, for the Mle 1936 is a very close shooting standard military rifle by anyones standards, other than a few utube experts. But that is what we face when wikipedia quotes the gunshow-wisdom of the Smith brothers.

 

TANSTAAFL,

A picture of your 1942 dated barrel in 7,5x54 would be greatly appreciated !

Now that you have done it once, finding the correct torque for your rifle band screw shouldn't be a problem for you.

Removing and refitting the forend and handguard of a Mas 36 can be done without too much disturbance of the rifle accuracy if the torque of the "grenadière" screw is respected.

It is not mandatory to use a torque tool, a caliper measurement of the gap between the band lips is just as efficient, even a simple paint mark on the band and screw head should allow you to restore the previous setting.

Fussing with minutes adjustments of the torque will achieve little or no accuracy changes, if there was no alteration of the bearing surfaces the previous accuracy should be easily restored with a few plinking shots.

kelt

 

rule of thumb most guns.....make a template of screw head slots directions....n-s-e-w before you turn one....
on Mauser's commercial guns i lay a sheet of paper rub slots with pencil to get returned positions back to their sweet spot...\ upon return assembly i take a rubber hammer hit crown smartly saddling action against recoil block... even British enfield's two piece stocks...this worked....
mas ? mine was unshootable...